So needless to say, the cooking stove is an important part of our farm. For us its also a gathering place for sharing ideas, socialising and where our produce will be transformed into delicious, off-the-farm meals. Its where family, friends and visitors spend quality time.
#Rocket stove dimensions full
I have kept a fire going for 8 hours full tilt in a maple syrup evaporator (8" x 9" x 30" feed, 8" x 8" x 30" riser, 8" diameter stovepipe 10' tall.) Using mostly larger logs, I didn't get coal buildup beyond a stable bed, and when raking out the next day, there was nothing but powdery white mineral ash.A kitchen space is probably one of the most important spaces for a home and even more so for a community space. Bigger sticks/logs mostly burn up before collapsing, so air gets to more of the coals more of the time. If you want a short, hot fire, lots of thin pieces will do that, at the cost of crumbling into coals quickly and potentially making a pile that chokes the bottom coals. I have found that using the largest wood that will fit comfortably in the feed (around half the size of the feed so you can put two in at once) gives the best performance if you want a lasting fire. A 4" L-tube 18" long x say 18" to 24" high would give you good working and reasonable tending requirements, in my opinion.You could always put a perforated floor in an inch above the bottom of the pipe if you are concerned about air supply.
I have made 6" L-tubes with a horizontal over 2' long, so you can have a considerable amount of wood contained and burning at once. You can make an L-tube whatever size you want - it doesn't require specific proportions like a J-tube. How do the L-tube works? The fire is directly on the bottom of the heat riser? Or you don't put the wood all the way in?Īre there any recommended dimensions or a good specific design for a small L-tube? I want something to use outdoors, and to be able to pick it up easily and store it in a corner of the shed, so looking for something small.
#Rocket stove dimensions portable
A 4" system is small enough that cleaning ash becomes difficult, and an ash cleanout would be needed.Īre you looking for a stationary outdoor cooking stove, or a portable one, or a traveling/camping one? That makes a big difference in what will be most practical. A grate in the bottom like Gerry's, or even just a bent piece of metal that gives an air path to the back of the burn tunnel, would help.Ī J-tube needs no grate or air channel.
Glenn Herbert wrote:Rather than depend on the iffy feeding character of a slanted feed tube, I would go with a simple L-tube. Found it while cleaning at home and that triggered the idea of making a stove. I would prefer using square tube, but the round one is all I have right now. The L shape sounds good, would make it easier to make a grate/ash tray. Yes I will only use it for cooking, at home but outdoors. Have you considered a square tube rather than round? This is what I used for my first RMH build and had an ash tray (made from a recycled cooking oil can) and a metal grate that I made from 1/2" rebar that worked quite well. The ratios are mostly guidelines as there are so many factors with every build that can affect what you can get away with in modifying them. Gerry Parent wrote:Mark, Seeing as you are using it just for cooking with nothing to slow or add friction to the exhaust (barrel or mass), the burn tunnel can be shorter without any problems.
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